'93 YJ U Joints

[cewtwo]

What is the solution for U joints?

As soon as we got the '93 YJ, we lifted it using a BDS 3" lift kit. I tell you this so you know that I do not know much about the Jeep prior to the lift kit.

I go through a lot of U Joints. Always on the rear drive train. Always on the trail. I always carry spares now. It is a drag.

Before a run, I get under and check the U Joints. Make sure that they are centered and quiet (this is paranoia related). I have used cheap replacements, Chrysler expensive replacements, and even medium replacements. Twice, on the trail, I have had to get the rear drive shaft from the trail and start the repair process.

What is the way to go? Is there a U joint brand that will take the stress the rear is obviously under? Should we try a yoke eliminator?

The positive side of this problem is that I am getting really good at working on U-joints!

Frustrated...

Opinions?

 

[88Wrangles]

hmmm, that's wierd. I have a 4 1/2 suspension lift and usually go through a u-joint every two months or longer. I just use regular replacement ones, nothing fancy. I would try jacking up the rear axle and try spinning the tires---see how much the u-joints are binding up or if they turn smoothly.

Hopefully someone else will be able to help you more :lol:

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Are there any degree shims on the rear leaf springs to point the pinion up? Any vibrations during normal driving?

Once you throw a ujoint the yoke is often shot, as the fleeing ujoint removes part of the cup that the ujoint sits in, making it easier to throw out ujoints. I used to a have a 350 YJ that couldn't hold in rear ujoints, so I feel your pain. Got to be where I could change a ujoint like a good pit crew.

 

[Snitty]

oh i'm there too... when you mean "throw ujoints", what are you speaking of? there is a number of things that can go wrong... the ears can bust off, so the cap can slide out... the holes may be worn, so the joint can wobble around in there... the angle can be off so that you stress the actual joint too much... the bearings can dry up and seize, the straps can back out or break... lots of things... i've had snapped ears, and i now have a yoke with a worn bore... i can slide the caps in and out with no effort, they can just drop right through.. which allows the caps to spin inside it, causing them to wear down and fail...

like bounty said, make sure you have degree shims in the perches... if you brought the Tcase down, then you changed the angle downward, so the output and pinion are not parallel... so you must degree the pinion so that it is parallel with the output yoke.

I never buy expensive joints... the expensive ones around here don't have grease fittings, they say they are "greased for life with lithium grease"... BLA... nothing can be greased for life... for now, if it keeps up... if you have/can get a spare driveshaft from a jeep with the same engine/drivetrain, I would say to keep one with you, with good joints... do the work at home, so on the trail, all you have to do is change out the shaft rather than bangin and clangin...

first thing i would try are the shims

 

[laneiac]

Just do a ubolt conversion.

 

[Snitty]

that still won't stop a lot of the problems... only the strap breaking/backing out problem

 

[laneiac]

I had always been told it would help ujoint problems. But I stand corrected!

 

[Snitty]

no, you're not wrong... it does fix some ujoint problems... but it won't fix a bad yoke

 

[cewtwo]

Well...

During a week of Colorado trail running, we threw yet another U joint. We were coming from Telluride, CO via Imogene Pass and were below where the trail seperates to Yankee Boy Basin. We had a spare (learned to do that at least). It lasted, oh about another 200 yards and it threw a cap. With parts from many U joints we were able to replace it yet once more. We got a new pack of straps and bolts from the emergency supply bag. This one held together through several more trails until we got back to Denver (still on, still working).
I get tired of trail repair so I took it in to a local repair provider. I was looking at a slip yoke eliminator, but the tech suggested changing the shim on the back leaf springs. It was suggested that it was the shims that may have been at fault. We have BDS lift kit on her (Broke a BDS leaf spring on this trip as well - Where did the parts come from? two miles from my house in Englewood, CO... I was in Durango, of course).
Purchased the 6.5 degree shim to replace the 4 degree that came with the leaf springs. Am installing it today and will let everyone know if that tends to solve my problem. After the first side (passenger) the drive train did appear to be more straight.
I was in Ouray, CO when I discovered the rear passenger side leaf spring was broken. Don't you just hate discovering something like that when you are in the middle of Jeep Heaven and there is no 4X4 shop in town? Especially when BDS says give 'em heck! So I do and they break.... Hmm...
The shop we ended up at was in Durango. It took two days to get the springs. Now I have front spring in both the front and the back...

Later all...

 

[Junkpile]

Winch problem

Run solid joints. The greasable ones are weaker because of that hole for the fitting running right through the middle of them. They don't weld the caps on the non-serviceable ones at the factory......if you're worried about it, take them apart and regrease them occasionally. If your not breaking the greasable ones though, save yourself some trouble and just stick with those.

6.5 degree shims with a 3" lift? :? You can go too far with the pinion aiming deal and cause more expensive problems with the slightest of spring wrap. I was wrapping the springs up pretty good on launch and ended up having to take the wedges out completely. I should have taken them out after the FIRST one broke, but I'm not too smart I guess. That was with a 4" lift under a YJ and joint destruction didn't increase any.

You know you've got some U joint problems when you carry spare crosses, bearings and cups from all the past carnage in the glove compartment so you can do a roadside rebuild if the need arises :lol:

 

[88Wrangles]

You know you've got some U joint problems when you carry spare crosses, bearings and cups from all the past carnage in the glove compartment so you can do a roadside rebuild if the need arises :lol:

Yep, that's what I was doing as well. You get sick of buying brank new u-joints everysingle time they break :roll:

 

[Snitty]

haha.. little baggie of needle bearings.. i know the story

 

[cewtwo]

Ok, I checked the records. It is actually a BDS 3 1/2" lift. The new shims are 6 degrees.

I got the 3 1/2" lift because it was the minimum for 33" tires. I actually got 4" of lift after the settling.

The angle is much better than before. It will get a road test this weekend. Going to Ft. Collins and catch Crystal Mountain and Moody Hill as well as a few others.

Oh yeah. I did buy a new Spicer U-joint just in case...

I'll let you know if anything related happens.

Thanks for your help!

 

[cewtwo]

Ah life goes on and sometimes it can be fun! Then, of course, there is the U-Joint problem.

First of all, I should have known that there was a problem when the U-joint would throw a cap. How could it throw a cap? I looked at the slip yoke and saw there was nothing to keep it on but the strap. The little metal ear that holds the cap in place was completely gone. So, I got smart! I used permanent (red) thread locker to set the bolts!

I hate having people in auto supply stores laugh at me. The guy at the Chrysler dealership said that he sells more slip yokes due to the use of the permanent thread locker than anything else. Hmmm... May be I could use some more (experience) smarts than I have.

Now, I know that I should have changed the crush bearing, but I removed the old slip yoke very fastidiously. I put the new one on and several hundred miles later I have had no further problems.

There is no vibration and it is a most enjoyable ride (again).

Oh yeah... That little bottle o0f permanent thread locker is in a landfill somewhere now...

Charlie

 

[Snitty]

how would threadlocker hurt a slipyoke?

 

[jeepinstien]

Only thing I can think of is you can't remove the bolts for normal repairs.

 

[cewtwo]

That is exactly what happed. Basically, I superglued the bolts into the slipyoke. I dremelled a slot into the remaining bolt section after the bolt head broke off, but it still would not come out.

Like I said, You live you learn. Its just that sometimes the cost of the learning experience hits you in the wallet!