Tech questions on suspension lifts.

[SenorCole86]

Motorcraft Carb questions

I'm gonna put a suspension lift on my CJ here pretty quick and was wondering how much of all this other hardware is required. Is it really that important to get a t-case dropper and a dropped pitman arm and longer brake lines and all of that good stuff? What else would I need other than springs, shocks, and u-bolts?

 

[LGR]

how high ya going?

 

[SenorCole86]

probably 4"

 

[Mxpx182lit]

Transmission problems

brake lines, yes. pitman arm, not required but very good to have, t case drooper is a necessity if you want 4 wheel drive

 

[Junkpile]

You may or may not need a Tcase drop. I'm not running one on my 77 with a 4" susp and 1/2" shackles, but I've needed one in the past on other CJs. You need the dropped pitman arm for a 4" lift. A new steering stabilizer will help with the bigger tires. Replacing ALL the bushings is a good idea on ANY CJ, and will make that new suspension feel and work better. You don't have to have new brake lines.....but again, if yours are the 25 year old originals.....why not?

Chances are good that your 80 model has 3.54:1 diff gears, or even worse. You may want to go ahead and plan on regearing to deal with the larger tires. Don't forget about the AMC20 rear axle shafts, if you haven't already replaced them with flanged one piece units. The factory tapered shaft will never last with bigger tires.

 

[Craig]

What is it.....?

The brake lines might not be necessary. I found on my YJ that you can pull the brake lines off where they are mounted to your frame in the front and just move them down giving plenty of play.

 

[SenorCole86]

golly, how much would it run me to get the axles regeared? and to what?

 

[SenorCole86]

Will I still be able to take my Jeep on the highway with 33" tires and existing axles. I read somewhere that these axles can handle no larger than 33's. It will run slower, correct?

 

[prariepunk]

I got 33" on my AMC 20 still gets goin' quick, but I got a AMC 360ci that doesn't run, T-150 trans, AMC 20 T-case, and 3.54:1 gears. Runs 65mph @ around 2500 to 3000rpm. In 4-low it tops out @ 20mph. I plan on goin to 4.88:1. It'll run me about $450 for parts and I'll be doing a front or rear locker at the same time. . . Ouch to my wallet! never had it toped out in 2-high. . . yet :twisted:

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

It'll be driveable with 33", but your performance will depend greatly on what your current axle gear ratio is.

Regearing costs vary, but it's usually about $200 per axle in parts, and about $200 per axle labor, sometimes more. Around here it's about $800 minimum, and that doesn't include lockers or different carriers if your carrier won't fit the low gears.

 

[SenorCole86]

RE: No heat

ouch, if i ever get the money to regear, I'm gonna put in some lockers while I'm at it. I'm assuming the regearing isn't ready a do-it-your-selfer?

 

[TwistedCU]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: TOP DOWN!!!

I'm assuming the regearing isn't ready a do-it-your-selfer?

with the right tools it can be, but lots to learn before one would try.

 

[Sully]

RE: NEVER giving up the jeep after this...

You could get a cv driveshaft instead of the t-case drop, that way, you dont lose clearance after the lift. That's what I would do. A Drop pitman arm is nice to have. I wouldnt lift it 4 inches without a drop pitman arm but that's just me. You wont need to regear if you plan to go to 33's. I am assuming you have a I6 or 8cyl in there so dont worry about pushing the bigger meats around. Longer brake lines are a must if you plan to do any wheeling. If you keep the stock ones you will tear them up when you go offroad or flex out your suspension. And you know what that means. NO BRAKES!

 

[88Wrangles]

cheap jeep

I'm assuming the regearing isn't ready a do-it-your-selfer?

Ya, if you read up real good on it and so some research...it can definatly be done. It's one of those things that you just need to set aside plenty of time to do (which is easy if it's not your daily driver).

And, if you do it yourself you'll definatly be happy with the money you saved!!

Just be sure to put in a locker at the same time if want one in there :wink:


-Matt

 

[SenorCole86]

Hrm, anybody know how much I'd need to clear 33's? Maybe I'll only put 2.5" on or something, cuz I dont wanna get too much lift and I dont wanna have to reagear my diffs.

 

[TwistedCU]

Re: RE: Yep

Hrm, anybody know how much I'd need to clear 33's? Maybe I'll only put 2.5" on or something, cuz I dont wanna get too much lift and I dont wanna have to reagear my diffs.

Re-gearing depends solely on how much larger of a tire you go with. If you went with a 2.5" lift you should clear 32's fine - which may be a better size to go with if you want to try to avoid doing gear ratio changes. Just a reminder that a 33" tire only gives you another 1/2" of clearance over a 32" tire

 

[SenorCole86]

Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo Recommendations

Ok, good deal, thanks guys.

 

[Junkpile]

You've got a CJ dude.....if you just want to run 32s, get a small BL--or shackle lift--or install some TJ flares. On 8" wide rims, a CJ7 will almost clear 32s at factory height.

I'd try the 2.5" lift and some 33s. Your 258 is alot more tolerant of tall diff gears than any other engine ever put in a SWB Jeep. The lowend torque does a pretty good job of turning them.

 

[TwistedCU]

His stock springs are shot and was looking to replace them anyway, I think that's why he's going suspension lift.

 

[SenorCole86]

RE: suspension lift+hinge shackles

exactly, my springs are sagging pretty bad and I figured I might as well lift it while I'm at it. If you think my setup can handle 33's I would like to get some. And with 2.5", I won't need a t-case drop, pitman arm, or extended brake lines, will I?