Goodies arrived!

jfrabat

New member
I am currently one happy camper! I currently have in my garage ready to install the following items:

Rubicon Express Standard 4" lift kit with DT shocks
KC SlimLites fog lamp kit
BRX Silicon Radiator Hoses
All Aluminum 1" one row radiator
Ford Taurus Dual Speed Fan
Fan speed controller
3 weather proof LED illuminated labeled rocker switches (for high beam lights, fog lights, and fan)
PORC SYE

Tom Woods shaft arrives on Wednesday!

So, this weekend, IT'S BUILDING TIME!!!! Hopefully, I'll get everything done this weekend, and will drive for 3 days in FWD until I receive the woody shaft... Then I'll put it on on Wednesday evening. I'll try to post pictures of the progress during the weekend.

Felipe
 

Boy, you got high hopes and alot a work ahead off ya. Should be all worth it though when you get done. make sure you grease the cv joint on that t/w driveline.(forgot mine and broke it in half about 1-1 1/2 yrs later.
 
Ahh, good times.

Seems I've been working on everybody's junk but my own lately (not really a complaint, I enjoy the wrenching), and my rig is starting to show it. Just got my PS steering knuckle back, sent it off to Sky Manufacturing for machining for a highsteer arm, so I'll be tackling my highsteer conversion within the next week or two.
 
Well, i guess the 4th of July (along with next weekend) I'll spend it doing the suspension work.... it is Sunday, 2:30PM, and I have finished installing the new radiator with the Electric Fan conversion, the electric fan controller, and I am just finishing up on the lighting part. Unfortunatly, the odd connections of the rocker switches I bought (http://www.4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/Rockerswitches/rockerswitch40.html) are making everything more difficult (I had to install Diodes because the switches would give -12V in one outlet and +12V in the other outlet, and reverse when I switched the opposite direction; even the 4 pin ones I am using for the KC Lights are acting up, as I keep blowing fuses if I connect the ground wire!).

In any case, the good news is that the radiator is working very well, as is the e-fan. As for the lights, well, I can live without them working for a week!

Felipe
 

YJ, thanks for the advice! Bounty, you are welcome to come to Miami and work on my Jeep anytime you feel bored!!! HAHAHA!!!

Anyway, a little update on my weekend...

I first installed my KC SlimLites Fog Lights on the stock bumper (for now; the bumper is still on the "things to change" list), and routed and connected all the cables.

DSC02406-1.jpg


Since I wanted these lights to be on only when I turn on the headlights, I connected them to the main beam of the headlights. But since I also wanted them on with my high beams, I used two diodes (fuses at the mean beam and hi-beam cables are 3A, so I used 3A diodes) and put one in the cable comming in from the main beam of the headlights, and then spliced it with the cable from the high beams of the previously installed KC Daylighters (which are mounted on the windshield and connected to the high beams) with another diode in the splicing cable so that electricity would go back in that direction either. Now if I turn the switches for both aux lights, they are both off when my lights are off, the fog lights come on with the low beam, and both come on with the high beam, so it is working as I wanted it to work (more light for those drives in the middle of nowhere!). And to avoid having 3 different kind of switches in the dashboard, I ordered some labled and lighted switches from http://www.4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/...rswitch40.html, which worked fine for the lights, but are still giving a bit of a headache for the fan (but that's further down this post!).

DSC02403-1.jpg


By the way, the hole above the switches came with the Jeep, and I had nothing to do with that! And the switches were in the UP position for the two in the right (lights) and the down position for the one in the left (fan); that's why they look not aligned!

DSC02401-1.jpg


I also takled the new radiator and hoses (that was simple enough), but the electric fan was a bit more of a challenge. I had to do some light mods to the shroud, as the original Ford shroud is a bit wider than the Jeep's radiator. I used a heat gun, a drill and a jigsaw to make the cuts and bends, and it came on nicely, I think. I'll be checking on it every now and then just to be sure it stays on nice and tight, though.

DSC02405-1.jpg


I also installed a fan controller from http://www.dccontrol.com/ which is really nice; this controller controls the fan speed so that instead of ON and OFF, you have many speeds for the fan to keep it steady at one temperature instead of bouncing up and down as the fan goes on and off. you can barely see it installed behind the battery on the picture above. This controller comes with a IGNITION and AC leads that you connect directly to a source that is only active wih the ignition switch (or if you want the fan on even after you turn the Jeep off, to any 12V source that is on even after the Jeep is off) and to the AC Compressor so that the fan turns on anytime the compressor does.

My intention was to splice the AC cable, and use a diode to keep the direction of the electricity in check, and further up the line splice the IGNITION (again, with it's respective diode) so that both lines are fed if the switch is in the UP position (thus forcing the fan ON), and then connect the DOWN position only to the IGNITION so that the fan is in AUTOMATIC in the DOWN position. Thus, I would have OVERRIDE ON, OVERRIDE OFF, and AUTO from the 3 positions of the rocker swithc, all with LEDs to show what position the swithc is on.

Unfortunately, because of the diagram of the switch, it seems this will not be possible.

image-missing.png


As you can see, when the switch is in the UP position, one side is fed +12V, but because of the conections to make the LEDs light up, the other side is now in -12V!!!! I have tried all possible connections, but since one side will always be grounded, the fuses keep blowing out!!! Any ideas on what to do about this? At this time, I connected the AUTO and of course I have the OFF function... But I had to leave one side totally non-functional because otherwie I keep blowing the fuses...

As far as the lift, dropped Pitman arm, SYE and T/W Shaft, they'ss have to wait for next weekend, as I had not even close to enough time to do this... By the way, any additional tips for this install is welcomed!

Felipe
 
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I love following a YJ build up!!! Can't wait to see the suspension, and get a review of the 4" Standard Duty.
 
What do you mean -12v? You either have 12v+ or a ground.

What do you want the switch to do exactly?

I have mine wired so center is off, and the other two positions are high and low.

If you want yours to be off when the ignition is off, you do that at the relays with a switched 12v source. Otherwise the 12v to the switch is likely not switched by the ignition. Then you would likely run one switch position through the fan controller relay and the other switch position to a relay that would power the low speed (or high) directly.

I use low speed only on my 2spd Taurus fan.
 

What I meant is that istead of turning one side on and leaving the other of, it turns one side on, and the other is on but with the polarity reversed...

But I think I figured out a way to connect it... I'll post the diagram if I can get it to work...

Basically, I want the switch to send a signal that from the switched 12V source when I press the down position (this will send a signal to the controller so that the fan is on Automatic), no signal in the center position (fan off), and a switched 12V source in the UP position to the controller to both the AC signal and the IGN signal so that the controller receives a signal that it is OK to turn the fan on (IGN) and that it HAS to turn the fan on because the AC is on (the way the controller is wired, if the AC compressor turns on, so does the fan, so this is to fool the controller to think the AC is on so that I will force the fan into ON). Because the controller will change the fan speed automatically, I do not need to connect the LOW speed setting, just the high (thus, the hotter the radiator, the faster the speed).

At this time, I have the automatic and the OFF working, but the override on is not yet working.

Felipe

Felipe
 
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