drive shaft length
- Thread starter extremeYJ
- Start date
88Wrangles
New member
yep, you'll have to move the rear end back, AND get a longer driveline. Once you put the lift and everything on, you'll have to measure to figure out what lengh driveline you will need. It will need a CV, yes.
May I also ask why you want it so tall? With the tires that you'll be able to clear (at least 44's...probably bigger), you might as well put on some 2.5 ton top-loading Rockwells, 'Mog axles, or something similar. You'll also want to upgrade your transmission, t-case, engine, and everything else to handle all that. I'm assuming this will also be for the mud only...considering it will probably ride too stiff for trails.
Good luck.
May I also ask why you want it so tall? With the tires that you'll be able to clear (at least 44's...probably bigger), you might as well put on some 2.5 ton top-loading Rockwells, 'Mog axles, or something similar. You'll also want to upgrade your transmission, t-case, engine, and everything else to handle all that. I'm assuming this will also be for the mud only...considering it will probably ride too stiff for trails.
Good luck.
RE: 1994 Jeep 350 swap
Well, I was thinking he would at least be running 39s under there.....
I'll ask again.....you mean you're keeping the np231? :shock:
If the tires don't kill it, the power needed to spin them will.
Like mentioned already, consider some offset leafs for a little bit more rear driveshaft length. The extra wheelbase also works well with the increased height and clearance in alot of instances.
How are you making the 10" of susp. lift? 4" spring, SOA, and lift shackles?
Well, I was thinking he would at least be running 39s under there.....
I'll ask again.....you mean you're keeping the np231? :shock:
If the tires don't kill it, the power needed to spin them will.
Like mentioned already, consider some offset leafs for a little bit more rear driveshaft length. The extra wheelbase also works well with the increased height and clearance in alot of instances.
How are you making the 10" of susp. lift? 4" spring, SOA, and lift shackles?
RE: 1994 Jeep 350 swap
ok, heres what im planning on doing, in the near future, SOA w/4in springs and 2 inch schakle reversal and 37inch tires, throw in some high gears in the axles with the four banger and i should be fine, later on im going to swap the stock axles with a pair of D44s and go with 39.5+, engine and rest of drivetrain still undecided, i already have a 360 and TF727 (just need to be rebuilt) or maybe a 4.0, i dont know? any thoughts about what i should drop in it with the D44s? keep in mind that its is still a on/offroad jeep, but the four banger just aint cuttin it anymore.
ok, heres what im planning on doing, in the near future, SOA w/4in springs and 2 inch schakle reversal and 37inch tires, throw in some high gears in the axles with the four banger and i should be fine, later on im going to swap the stock axles with a pair of D44s and go with 39.5+, engine and rest of drivetrain still undecided, i already have a 360 and TF727 (just need to be rebuilt) or maybe a 4.0, i dont know? any thoughts about what i should drop in it with the D44s? keep in mind that its is still a on/offroad jeep, but the four banger just aint cuttin it anymore.
Joopin
Super Moderator
Re: I feel the need...
10 inches for a 37? I have 36s under my SOAd YJ and I have plenty of room, those things are gonna look tiny. If you take that thing offroad with those stock axles and the 37s somethings gonna give and you will be looking for those D44s quicker than your planning.
10 inches for a 37? I have 36s under my SOAd YJ and I have plenty of room, those things are gonna look tiny. If you take that thing offroad with those stock axles and the 37s somethings gonna give and you will be looking for those D44s quicker than your planning.
88Wrangles
New member
RE: **UPDATE**
Ya, lower diff. gears (numerically higher) are MUCH weaker and will cause other parts to break easier too--like axles, joints, etc.
For only 37's, why don't you just do an SOA and maybe like 1" springs?
Ya, lower diff. gears (numerically higher) are MUCH weaker and will cause other parts to break easier too--like axles, joints, etc.
For only 37's, why don't you just do an SOA and maybe like 1" springs?
RE: Re: Really need some help!
i think your right, im probably just going to do the suspension when i put in the axles, but im still going big cause its florida and theres nothing but mud, one last question, are wagoneer d44s the same as cj d44s? i know there practically the same width as stock yj axles and where can i find parts?
i think your right, im probably just going to do the suspension when i put in the axles, but im still going big cause its florida and theres nothing but mud, one last question, are wagoneer d44s the same as cj d44s? i know there practically the same width as stock yj axles and where can i find parts?
this may be normal...but
The diff section of almost all D44s is the same basic thing, except for some oddball stuff like the aluminum GC versions, CAD setups, and of course reverse cut models. It's the shafts, tubes, and outers that change from vehicle to vehicle. The narrow SJ D44 is wider than any CJ(2A-8) D44 rear, even wider than the rear D44 from the 86 models by two inches. The "widetrack" SJ D44 is 3 or 5 inches wider than the narrow version, I think. CJs never came with anything bigger than a D30 in the front, and CJ D44 rears prior to 1971-72(?) are tapered shaft 19 spline units instead of the common D44 flanged 30 spline shafts.
The diff section of almost all D44s is the same basic thing, except for some oddball stuff like the aluminum GC versions, CAD setups, and of course reverse cut models. It's the shafts, tubes, and outers that change from vehicle to vehicle. The narrow SJ D44 is wider than any CJ(2A-8) D44 rear, even wider than the rear D44 from the 86 models by two inches. The "widetrack" SJ D44 is 3 or 5 inches wider than the narrow version, I think. CJs never came with anything bigger than a D30 in the front, and CJ D44 rears prior to 1971-72(?) are tapered shaft 19 spline units instead of the common D44 flanged 30 spline shafts.
extremeYJ, I just noticed your post in the other section regarding rebuild kits for your 1977 Wagoneer axles.
This got my attention because you had mentioned that you were planning on running the np231 tcase. The front diff on a 77 Wagoneer was a passenger side diff, but that np231 is a drivers side drop.....meaning it's for a front axle that has the diff on the drivers side.
These axles aren't from a Wagoneer that had Quadratrac are they? If they are, then the rear diff is also offset to the passenger side, where the 231 rear output is for a centered diff.
This got my attention because you had mentioned that you were planning on running the np231 tcase. The front diff on a 77 Wagoneer was a passenger side diff, but that np231 is a drivers side drop.....meaning it's for a front axle that has the diff on the drivers side.
These axles aren't from a Wagoneer that had Quadratrac are they? If they are, then the rear diff is also offset to the passenger side, where the 231 rear output is for a centered diff.
Snitty
New member
RE: which Junkyard "car" seats fit YJs?
If you are going full size axles, you might end up finding some with the diff on the passenger side. If you do, get the transfercase from the same vehicle. Most transfercases from full sized vehicles will be tough enough to handle large tires
If you are going full size axles, you might end up finding some with the diff on the passenger side. If you do, get the transfercase from the same vehicle. Most transfercases from full sized vehicles will be tough enough to handle large tires
i dont know about that, the transfer case that i have is locked up and the front driveshaft is busted and the four wheel drive system is complicated and weird, theres a knob in the dash board and you turn it to put it in four wheel drive and you turn it the other way for hi or low, i dont know, it says for emergencys and theres a pull lever for low range.
anybody know of some other transfer cases that will work with the diff on the passenger side?
anybody know of some other transfer cases that will work with the diff on the passenger side?
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Jeepy!!!
You have the quadratrac t/c. P.O.S. If you're drive shaft is on the pass side and the rear is centered you have your choice of about 20 :lol: different t/c. Stick to the gear drive stuff. 300-205. Like snitty said, get the t/c and axles from the same rig and save a headace later..........
You have the quadratrac t/c. P.O.S. If you're drive shaft is on the pass side and the rear is centered you have your choice of about 20 :lol: different t/c. Stick to the gear drive stuff. 300-205. Like snitty said, get the t/c and axles from the same rig and save a headace later..........
jeepless20
New member
RE: Spring perch attachment for YJ from FSJ (D 44)
dare i say, atlas II. and arent dana 300's on the pasenger side.
extremeYJ said:
dare i say, atlas II. and arent dana 300's on the pasenger side.
88Wrangles
New member
RE: Engine Noise
yep, and NP205's are good gear driven t-cases.
NP203's are good and solid...but they need to have a part-time kit put in them since they are full-time cases. They are chain driven, but still very solid.
yep, and NP205's are good gear driven t-cases.
NP203's are good and solid...but they need to have a part-time kit put in them since they are full-time cases. They are chain driven, but still very solid.
If it's a 77 model with Quadratrac, then it also has an offset rear diff. To run any of the boxes mentioned, you will need a new rear axle. To use the SJ rear axle, you need a Tcase with an offset rear output, and there aren't any good ones worth swapping in. You need to find a rear axle from an 80-91 Wagoneer. It will match your front axle in width and lug pattern, but has a centered diff.
