Search results

I'll be glad to offer a fair and to the best of my ability an accurate reply to any questions that you have. Having re-read the content of my posts, I'm quite sure that if you have a vacuum pump w/gauge you can easily verify each point that has been made.

Please do tell how idle jets have an effect with remedying this "I looked down into the throttle body and at idle you can see gas pouring in."

From reading this thread as well as the newer, it is my opinion that your throttle plates are open too far. The speed screw on the DGES must be set within 1/2 turn in. You would be best served to tune per the REDLINE tune document and then if you insist on or ever find the need in using a...

Although I view this site almost daily I seldom sign in, I just got notice of your message. Centrifugal advance depends on three things, the advance head that is fitted, the spring rate and engine rpm. I've only seen one 3-5* head, it was mounted to a '83 (first year of CEC). So one might expect...

There are two screws, one regulates the throttle plate position labeled a speed screw and the mix screw, it regulates the flow of fuel from the idle hole. If the speed screw is set so that the throttle plate is open too far a unreguated/sporatic flow will occur at the transition/enrichment...

It is not a given that a FPR is necessary, sixteen years of Weber use has never once produced a need on any of my many applications. The OEM fuel filter used with the fuel return line is a FPR, and jeeps fuel pumps DO NOT produce 8-10 psi. New replacements are rated at 5-7 and the in-service...

None finer IMHO! Just be sure you are shopping at a site that you see the name or logo of REDLINE Weber. I recommend the 32/36DGEV for the common use and a 38DGES for a high performance series.

Many of the local chain auto part supply houses would be able to check the ICM for you, if it is found to be bad don't settle for the least expensive brand.

Well,... maybe this will be a bit more helpful. It will be found on the left side just over the case/pan seam, and then the switch contact would be made at the underside of the Starter (solenoid)relay.

Don't know if I would blame that wanna be 'Weber' DGEC. Look to the installer/tuner. Had you purchased a real Weber you would have been instructed not to apply RTV as a sealant, use locking compound on the studs and bolts and then torque the bolts to a specified value, along with an accurate...

"A Space Odyssey"

Its only a matter of time.....

WOW... that is one impressive list of modifications you have going there, now I see some reasoning behind the listed weight. Knowing the limited space that would be available inside a CJ7 I wonder where you've mounted the two axillary batteries and how they are rigged. Are they continuously...

Shocks absorb shock, nothing else, aside from limiting travel. Depress them or extend them they retain that position until drawn to the next. Rancho 5000's are OK.

Keep a close eye on the gear for wear. More than once the hardness of the gear has been suspect and claimed to be corrected, then gear alignment came into question, abnormal dist drive gear wear became the norm. Maybe all is well with it now.....

While viewing the page to want to link to the forum right click on the address up in the address bar, then left click "select all", then while the cursor is still over what is now highlighted right click once more and left click "copy". Move the cursor to the reply window and right click...

Link? I find page after page of smiths in the engine performance industry but....

The switch knobs have a spring washer type thing that will depress and release. Those with cables attached were kinda fused onto the shafts and normally just fall off. Maybe you have a good set and will need a bit of heat applied to the back of the knob to allow you to twist and pull them...

Being a Cal resident you'll likely be setting your own trap with the nutter... if you passed as a result of the cat change chances are that all is OK with the C.E.C. system. Keep it maintained.

Maybe this one will do. It indicates the use of the "E" ported nipple for the EGR...via the CTO and then the Thermal Vacuum Switch. Then it is showing the use of the "S" ported nipple controlling the (non-bleed)canister purge signal...and manifold vacuum as the cold run source for spark...