Search results

easy way to find out is to go to your local parts store... often they can pull the part & the one youre looking at ... put them side by side and see the difference.... if it looks like they'll work youre golden if not you know where you stand on it - did it many a time with older rides and...

yea the ecu is the electronic control module - mounts on the driver side well under the radiator res. in its stock location.... its about 4 or 5" sq. and has 2 connectors going to it....

good to hear...sounded like the engine couldnt inhale - but it turns out it couldnt exhale...so the blockage was post engine... i was thinking pre... dont come across plugged cats too often... but good to know you got it going again! lot of posters dont let us know the solution... you may have...

if you post where youre at either in your signature or info you might just find someone nearby... i know i'm always lookin for wheelin partners (used to go out by myself till i realized what a bad idea that is when a friend got stranded for 2 days in the desert...) g'luck!

looking to go oem or aftermarket? cant imagine it would be too difficult to swap in - but its a matter of sourcing out the parts... if you can find them in a boneyard youre better off w/oem and installing - otherwise - check out the aftermarket as dealer pricing will prob. make the oem setup...

were they hard wired w/new pigtails or plug n play? - check the wiring and make sure you dont have anything crossed up.... thats the only thing i can think of w/this swap if all was working b/4 you started... generally if the relay is bad it'll just not blink or blink rapidy (usually not blink...

have you checked your fuel pump and fuel pressure... also check the oil pressure sensor as this is often tied into the pump... if it'll get a bit down the road then die... that sounds like a filter problem (packing up) but you changed that - try blowing out the lines but the pump is the first...

you should be ok... i'm running 2 55watt backup lights off the stock reverse light circuit (which is 10 amp in the fuse block..) ... you figure each light will draw 5 amps or less (you said youre running 55w bulbs...and p=e x i. - p=power(watts), e=voltage, i=current (amps)) .. so 55=12 x i...

been running 4 yrs w/a 4" lift with neither the front or rear track bar and no sway bar... so personally i wouldn't worry about it.... just remember its not a ferrari in the corners and you'll be ok....

is it stock or mod'd - if no spark and you c/o the coil... check the ecu... i had that prob w/y 258... they can die sudden or drain ya slow (mine did fine till it got hot...) - i changed the plugs , the coil, and still died on me... but if it was ok b/4 - that may be your culprit - hopefully...

okay... so its been a while since i posted but i thought i'd try this again... i'm trying to mount a sanden type compressor in my jeep - none of the aftermarket sites have a kit for it - turns out the 89 4.2 w/serp. belt was pretty rare - as its a california emission jeep - but i was wondering...

sounds odd but check the valve cover.... i thought i had a rms leak in my 4.2 - turned out almost all the v/c bolts were 1/4 - 1/2 turn loose... the oil snaked its way to the rear bottom and down b/w the block and bellhousing - prob not your problem but something to check .... just my $.02 - g'luck!

i'm running 33's w/4" lift (for 4 years now...) and have little to no issues - i eventually trimmed about 1/2 - 3/4" off the edges of my stock flares (when i flat-fendered the front) and the only rub i get is inside the rear wells, the back flange where the flares bolt to the body - and thats...

i think the whole salvage title deal is to help "protect" future buyers - to let them know there have been "issues" in the past - problem is - there's no side note as to what the "issues" might have been... and as for the $$$ take the deal - pay them back as little as possible, break out the...

Put my name in that hat! - thanks!

Welcom to Jeepz! - you'll like it here! - anyway... i had that problem with 2nd or 3rd gear in my old jeep - its prob an internal prob and you either live w/it or R/R the transmission.... i just learned to hold it in gear or skip shift... g'luck

if not a solid axle conversion then go posi-lok or homemade cable to remove the vac. system - then you'll know if its engaged or not... (can you tell i HATE the vac system?)

ya know... i have a beautiful Rottie that i rescued when i really didnt want another dog - had 3 at the time.... and ya know... she's the best dog i ever had.. and the only one i still have... RESCUE THAT JEEP!!! - even if you dont want it or plan to keep it - you'll be saving something that...

Welcome to Jeepz! you'll like it here! lots of great people and good help/ideas!!!! I'd just get rid of the front axle vac. system and make a cable system yourself or go with the posi-lok you'll thank yourself later... why modify a bad setup... my homemade cable sys. works great - no regrets

i have a friend that just bought a 89 yj w/a 4.3 s10/4L60E and the wiring was from painless - you might want to check with them.... dont know if it helps but doesnt cost anything to post... g'luck!