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Flowmaster makes a lonf skinny muffler that's supposed to make a mellow "50's tone." I've never heard it, but from what I hear it's supposed to be quiet and mean. This may very well be the 40 series, I don't remember. EDIT : *visits flowmaster website* These "Hushpower II" mufflers may have...

I still don't see how an open diff will perform better in ice or snow. . .

I don't know if it's so much that OEM seals don't keep fluids out, just that some extremely rapid cooling occurs when your engine, transmission, and diffs come in contact with water. This creates a little vacuum that pulls fluids through your seals. I don't think there's a seal in the world...

Are you saying that an open diff will perform better in ice and snow than a locked one, or are you saying that a selectable locker will do better? Once locked, I fail to see the difference between a welded diff and a diff with a selectable locker. Not disagreeing with you bud, just trying to...

If this doens't help, what about one of them little images that contain random text. You know, where the text in the image is somewhat obscured and you have to type in the text in the field verbatim or you get rejected.

I go to school there in Terre Haute at RHIT.

Personally, I like the idea of an Ox locker better. It's selectable just like an ARB but doens't have vulnerable air tubes running under your jeep and doesn't require an air compressor. It also comes with a heavy duty diff cover for the fork. From what I hear, they're pretty tough as well...

It's time. I'm looking for a good off road tire that isn't horrible on the highway either. I'm fixing to make a loooong trip from Texas to Indiana this coming fall and I need tires that can handle it. I've been eying the TRXS and like them but a buddy of mine is really pushing these Cooper...

I've heard people say that you need to find a power valve that doesn't open up until 16 inHg of vacuum. You're gonna have to go to a carbuetor rebuilder for that. I just looked under "carburetor" in the yellow pages (imagine that). Good luck bud.

or an eight . . . :)

Ah, good deal then. Sorry I wasn't any help. Glad you got it figured out.

I got the new u-joints into the driveshaft and the c-clips slid in ok, but the u-joints don't spin too freely. I was wondering if this was normal. My guess is that the motion of the driveshaft will correct everything once I get it back under there, I just wanted to make sure before I bolted it...

I'm thinking about mach 1, maybe 2 if you're late for something.

Where the overtravel arm connects to the throttle, there should be a little nut or some similar thing on there that lets you change the length of that arm. If you make it shorter, it will give less gas upon acceleration, which is what I'm thinking you probably need to do. I'm basing all this on...

does the weber have an accelerator pump? That might just need adjusting.

Aaaaah, well, welcome to the SWB crowd then. Have fun with it. And thanks for the help Redrooster

Ah, there you go Bounty. It is a 12 pt socket. I didn't know such a thing existed. Thanks a lot, I'll be making a trip to Ace tomorrow for a socket then. Once I get it out, I'll tell y'all how it goes. Thanks a lot. Hey TC, what happened to your XJ?

Yeah, that's what I figured. I looked up the process in my Chilton and wasn't really intimidated. Aaaaand, well, I feel like a retard for asking this question, but the u-bolts are held in by some weird male torx bolt that I can't seem to get any socket (metric or standard) to fit around. 9/32 is...

If they're in your price range and a good winch, I'd go as high as possible. What brands were these 8500's you were looking at? I don't know all that much as far as the different brands go, but I'm sure someone who does will stumble across your thread and you'll have all the info ready for them...