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There is a house on the way to my son's place that almost always has 1-3 mowers setting in the driveway with a for sale sign. I've never stopped so I don't know anything about them but if you get too many - selling the extras would put a little extra jingle in your pocket.

With stubborn rusted bolts I like to sauce them down with PB Blaster several times in the days leading up to the work. Rapping them with a hammer can help while trying to turn them. When all else fails use heat [torch] but being a body panel that needs to be done with care.

PB Blaster is a LOT better than WD40! That is what I use first, when that isn't enough I get out my torch.

I've only owned 2 jeeps, a 1990 XJ and my 2010 JK. The XJ had very little rust under it [except for the trailer hitch/receiver] but not so with my JK. I've already sanded and painted under it and need to do so again. For the most part the only offroading my jeep does is on my mountain driveway...

My son recently bought the Harbor Freight version of that bleeder - it didn't hold up too well, the pump was the weak link.

Fuel pumps can last a long time so it's a good bet it still has the factory pump. It's been a while since I've heard a failing pump but it's kind of a whirring sound, most notable at an idle.

I've never used a mig but have been told they are a lot easier to use than a stick welder. I bought my first stick welder [buzz box] from Harbor Freight and Salvage about 40 yrs ago for $75. I learned enough with it to warrant buying a 240 volt stick welder. I know a few diyers that have HF...

I managed to replace the fuel pump on my 1990 XJ without removing the tank. I used whatever autozone sells with a lifetime warranty. It worked well for the next 5 yrs when I sold it and got a JK.

HF welders aren't great but it's not a bad deal if you don't know whether or not you want to do welding. I learned on a cheap HF stick welder [still learning] Happy Birthday Terry! if I boycott my birthdays will the numbers quit adding up :rolleyes:

I can't read that with out remembering and have a chuckle. A friend of mine's wife is very conservative. When asked what she did over the weekend she replied 'rode around the mountain topless' Of course that got some wide eye looks from her non jeeper friends. now back to your regular...

Shouldn't be.

When a clutch is slipping the engine speed will accelerate but the vehicle will not - at least not as much as the engine speed does.

When I replaced the fuel pump on my 1990 Cherokee I didn't need to drop the tank. It was a little awkward and tight but it beat dropping the tank.

That trolley jack looks just like mine. I bought it from Harbor Freight and Salvage over 40 yrs ago. My son who was 2 at the time removed the plate [and lost the screws] right after I bought it.

y'all making me feel old :p

I've never understood the desire for a low rider except on a race track. Over the yrs I've seen several stuck on speed bumps. The craziest low rider I've seen was a early 70s model chevy blazer.

UV rays are hard on paint and clear coat. That's why you see the tops of vehicles [hood,roof] have the paint fail first. It will need to be sanded down smooth, possibly primed, wet sanded and then spray the finish.

My 2010 JK is my 2nd jeep [bought new] and I'm convinced that Chrysler uses the cheapest parts possible when they assemble the jeeps. I had to replace the rear break pads before 50k, and 3 calipers before 65k. Skid plates need to be removed, rust ground down and primed/painted. Even so, I doubt...

oops, that was a typo,I change the oil every 3,500 miles

My 2010 JK has been using oil since around 60k. Not a lot but sometimes needs a quart between changes. It's been well maintained with regular oil changes at 35k intervals. IMO it's a lack of quality control at Chrysler.