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Sorry I have trouble being persuaded. How about a 4.0 with a ported and polished head with some of the head surface taken off (higher compression ratio), Moderate Cam, Wrapped Headers with an exhaust, some serious intake work done, MAP Adjuster (one of my favorites) and Iridium plugs? If that...

Unofortunatly the Jeep T-Type is long gone. I had to decide between reliability and "fun". I turned everything back to stock (I feel bad for the poor guy that gets that jeep) and traded it in for a Chrysler 300. I did buy a new bike though, maybe ill put a turbo on that :shades:

The '82 f body, did that judge fuel using a MAF or air speed density (MAP)? If you spray nitrous on a MAF sensor the computer will go nuts becuase of the temperature drop (200 degrees) and could damage the wires. I make it a point on any nitrous system to make sure the nitrous hits as few...

I would say, if you wanted to spend the time and mooola, 4.6 Stroker.

Vanmantraveler, I have to disagree. Only in the case with jeeps. The older fuel injection simple is so easy and simple to tune. Or at least with my experiences.

I had a nitrous set up in my 99 xj. It really gave a nice oomph. But, I blew the motor. My fatal mistake was running a dry set up. But i have heard very good things about well built wet systems.

Jdirt, The most difficult part of the build is running the exhaust pipe. I started at first with flex pipe. Then, piece by pice replaced the flex with hard pipe. I would also recommend using an electric pump for oil scavenge. Putting a hole in the oil pan will just make a BIG mess.

A turbo can fix anything :shades:

Having to have a custom head pipe made isn't a big deal, It should also free up some hp. I'm running a 2 3/4in custom head pipe with a stock exhaust. It sounds pretty bad a** and you can notice the difference

Well, a little bit of advice to everyone. Keep an eye on your fuses and your electrical setup. I blew the fuse to the oil pump that removes oil from the turbo. You can hear the oil pump at idle but when your crusing down the road the turbo is far too oloud to hear the pump. So without proper oil...

EUREKA! I did it. The 7th injector worked. I put a T into the fuel line, ran the line to an extra injector I installed just before the throttle body and wired it to a hobbs switch. It runs nice and comfortably rich through all the gears. Now I can actually get some sleep not worrying about what...

Well, so far, I've tried several things. I've tried an inline booster fuel pump running off a hobbs switch (a switch that completes a circuit when it sees positive pressure in the intake manifold). That works here and there but sometimes it chokes the fuel to the rail and sometimes it pumps too...

IMHO, the best bang for your buck is a nice high flow header. You can find them for around $300 and they are alot easier to install than you may think. If you want to go with something less expensive, cut out your muffler, leave the cat and replace the muffler with a simple straight pipe. I...

Hey, do what I do when I need more power when I have a slow vehicle, just strap a turbo or nitrous to it. :shades:

I need one with boost refrence, That one only does vaccumm. I have one in mind but the range is from 36-47psi

I need to get a fuel pressure regulator with boost reference. But I have to find the right one. Does anyone know the factory fuel pressure for an '03 4.0?

i'm definatly getting a wideband when i get around to it. Ive got some other things I need to spend the money on first. I had the narrow band lying around from my SSEi. So I threw it in there.

yea, an air fuel gauge, narrow band or wide band is an absolute necessity when tuning your vehicle

It's a narrow band air fuel gauge. I took the videos before I got it running right. It only measures air/fuel at WOT. When the lights are green that means the engine is running rich and safe. In the video you can see it was red a little bit, that means its running lean.

I'll definatly do a write-up when I get some free time. Balancing work and an expensive time consuming hobby is tough.