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Fix the crank position sensor and the other problems may go away. Should be on the bell housing, drivers side.

Depends upon the nature of the mud, some stains more than others. All I’ve ever done is to use soap, water, and a scrub brush. Just make sure you have as much grit sprayed off of the top windows as possible before you wipe them down, and no brushes, just a soft clean cloth.

Yes. Try this: http://www.jeepz.com/forum/engine/16927-six-cylinder-4-2-liter-jeep-engine-specs.html

A lot also depends upon the load weight and braking ability of the trailer in relation to the weight of the of the tow vehicle. If the trailer load is properly balanced the tongue weight on the hitch can be made to not overload the tow vehicle springs and/or hitch rating in most cases. Assuming...

It sounds to me like you must be getting air back into the system. Perhaps the bleed fitting isn’t sealing when tightened or something is cracked. I'd start at the top and work down another time.

Jase- I assume you have an I-4 motor at this time. Is everything else stock as far as the gearing in the axles, transmission, and tires size? Large heavy tires will suck the life out of an I-4 just to keep them turning. The best and easiest swap would be an AMC I-6 or AMC V-8. As both motors...

The simple answer is with time and money you can accomplish most any swap. I use to own a 1972 240Z. It was fast, topping out about 113 mph (not bad for the day) but the carbs were a pain. More importantly, a CJ is not a Z car nor should they be. My 1972 CJ5 with a 304 would go down the road at...

If your front tires are out of balance the front end will start to hop or shake, commonly referred to as “Death Wobble”, but it usually will be at a certain speed and then may or may not go away as your speed rises. Death Wobble may stem from steering components being warn too but if it is just...

You may want to try Krylon Fusion for the paint. Spray it in thin, light coats. (build it up slow)

The cover to an AMC 20 rear end will be round like a ball.

Try this drawing. It's not for 1982 but should be close.

Mike- Have you checked the steering shaft from the wheel down to the box? There are two parts to the shaft, from the box up and the wheel down. The two shafts marry together in the engine compartment with the lower shaft inserting into the upper shaft with a spline system to keep it tight; a...

Some top part are hard to come by without purchasing a new top or frame or both. Try www.4wd.com . They should be able to help guide you in the right direction.

Pictures?

The short answer is no, just because a T18 lived behind a V8 does not mean it will fit in a CJ. Jeep used at least seven different shaft lengths. The CJ T18 version used a shaft that is just under 7-1/2” (7.42”), and most FSJ have a 5” plus adaptor between the front of the transmission and the...

I have never seen an extension on the market but you could make one easy enough or have a machine shop do it. Cut/machine a piece of stock to length, drill and tap a hole to match the threads on the shifter then thread the top of the extension to fit the shifter knob. Maybe cut a couple of...

To me the chase is half the fun!

If it were my money….. A lot would again depend upon how hard you wheel and how long before you expect to make the move up to wider axles. Axle work is expensive and I would not spend a lot of money on a CJ AMC 20 (FSJ 20 is a different matter) unless you plan to keep it for a while and then...

It is all about how you drive it. The tubes are thin on a CJ AMC 20 and the pumpkin housing is cast, brittle and prone to cracking; heavy bouncing not recommended but with one piece shafts they can live a long life.

In my experience the pumps tend to give you a little warning with hard starting when cold before they go out but anything is possible. I would check the fuse first (not sure if there is a relay off hand, have to check the book) then the wiring particularly the grounds. But in order to get to the...