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Replacing the exhaust manifold is a no brainer. They all crack due to heat & flex. Notice the flex joints in the manifold that that is in this ebay link; they help with the flex but are not a cure all. $73.81 delivered to your door and a Saturday afternoon and the job is done. Once you do one...

I would say Craig’s List, ebay, or this: http://www.hardtopdepot.com/tj-unlimited/ Slim Pickens on the used market but they do come up.

Yep, it’s got to be an AMC and you have to use the right flywheel but they are available for any parts house. Look for the motor size cast into the side of the block below the motor mounts.

Also you could use the Ford bell housing and a Ford T18. The T150 & T176 have a Ford “butterfly” pattern too. Shaft stick-out length will be the only thing to check.

The AMC 401 is getting pretty hard to find. Most of the major rebuilders need you to send them your block first as they don’t have a rebuilt one in the warehouse. The 390 will be even harder to get. Not saying it can’t be done but it can take a while. I haunted Craig’s List and the like for over...

It seems like some of the rectangle nuts for the hard top bolts stay in and some fall out. There may be a retainer for them all, don’t know, but I do know I’ve never had them all stay put when removing the hardtop.

Buy It

Do yourself a favor and just do a long block swap. The average mechanic can do the job in a weekend; maybe even bump up to an AMC 360.

A lot of discussion to be had on this swap but here is my two cents: Transmission: -18 transmission (CJ or Ford version) Transfer Case: -Dana 20. Easy bolt up to the T18 (Will need to change rear end.) -1980 Scout Dana 300 (Will need to change rear end.) -CJ (round hole) Dana 300 (Will need...

You could spray a little into the cap and use a small paint brush to dab the white spots and yes you can paint the whole top from a rattle can just apply it in thin coats.

YJs tend to leak from the hose connections on the top of the gas tank but can be accessed by feel; crawl under the jeep in front of the driver’s side rear wheel and reach back and up to feel the connections. Tighten them up with a screw or nut driver. On a TJ you have no choice but to drop the tank.

A lot of guys touch up their tops with Krylon “Fusion” but having said that it is important to remember that your top has been exposed to the elements for the last seven years or so and most likely has weathered and not the same shade it was when it left the factory. Even if you did have a paint...

What do you mean, won’t turn over or turns over but no go?

Did you install a transmission lowering kit at the skid plate? If not vibration will be a problem. Your next option is to install a slip yoke elimination on the transfer case.

I’m in Superj’s camp. My bet would be the belt, tensioner, or one of the pulleys with a bearing. Belts will make noise until things warm up or get going when there is a problem.

X 2. I own both a 1978 CJ5 as a toy and a 1999 TJ as a driver too. The TJ has a much better ride and comforts however for much of my life a CJ5 was my daily driver. I remember driving my 1972 CJ5 through the Columbia River Gorge in a storm so bad it was snowing almost as hard inside the jeep...

I want to apologize to the brethren for using the word “car” on a Jeep board. I am deeply ashamed to have humiliated myself in such a way. Please know I have ordered a penance of no less than 8 hours drive time and/or wrench time in and/or on my jeep to make amends. This sentence is to be...

Johnny is right the high backs will save you from whip lash in a crash. Jeep did put high backs in CJs during the later years as the Feds required them.

I use car soap.

Looks Good!