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Check these guys out: http://www.bearcreeksurvey.com/ForumOnly.htm The two you need are probably need these:

My book says 43

Sounds like it could be that pesky fuel filter too. Check your vacuum lines as mentioned but when the fuel filter gets clogged, at higher RPM not enough fuel gets through to feed the demand. This holds true for any sized motor. On a YJ the filter is on the inside of the frame rail, looks like a...

The 343 block was the forerunner of the 360 as the 290 became the 304 and 390 became the 401. These blocks are not related to the 327 which when introduced actually had more HP than the Chevy V8 of its day.

Most likely it is an 343 not a 340. The motor is 1967-1969 vintage and is fairly high compression, 10:1 or so and I think it was rated close to 300 HP with a 4 barrel. I don’t know about the bellhousing bolt pattern but may be different from the AMC pattern we all know and love. It sounds like...

1972 is the first year CJs used the AMC I6 & V8 engines and is also the year 3” was added to the engine compartment to accommodate them. The engines to bell housing bolt pattern on all CJ & YJs are the same regardless of I6 or V8. I’m not sure when but at some point in the TJ run I have heard of...

Try a 3/8” ratchet (without the socket), should fit.

The AMC V8 block has the displacement cast into the side of the block just under the motor mount. Otherwise at a glance you can’t tell the difference between the AMC 304, 360, 390, and 401 when lined up in a row.

Could just be the thermostat opening.

I’m with 69JeepCJ. Check the pump. When the pumps start to fail they won’t give the pressure needed to properly supply and atomize fuel to the cylinder. As things warm up and expand the motor runs better. Once left to stand for a while the cool down make the symptoms return.

Contact Herm; he is the guru of Spicer 18. http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/index.htm

Nothing to be afraid of, it’s just nuts and bolts really. (hee hee) All kidding aside there is a few things involved of course other than turning nuts and bolts but in the long run you probably should or may want to at least know how to do this; to me it is part of the fun. It is best to have a...

We all learn by doing in this sport. No time like the present to learn how to swap an engine!

Try this: http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/1999-jeep-wrangler-inventory.html?campaign=www.used-auto-engines.com These engines have been made for so long they are almost a dime a dosen.

When I swapped a hardtop on my 97 soft top TJ I found that not all the wires need to hook up everything were there so I bought a wiring harness and misc. items from a guy parting out a slammer. A two pump bottle is needed if you want to wash the back window without doing the front at the same...

When engaging the starter all power is diverted to the starter and the ignition system to facilitate the need for cold cranking amps. The radio and all dash lights will turn off. If you get not action from there either the starter solenoid or the starter have gone bad, or the battery has issues.

Maybe it has something to do with the fresh air box in the cowling leaking into the heater and then when it heats up frozen moister melts, hits the heat exchanger and you get the steam. Just a wild a** guess.

Bad shock absorber or broken mount would be my guess off hand.

I’d look for a vacuum leak if you don’t have any codes.

It doesn’t matter that the front of the transmission will bolt up, Jeep I6 to I6, the back will not. The 1973 CJ, assuming all is still stock, used the Dana 20 transfer case with what is referred to as a “Texas” bolt pattern as the pattern points resemble the state of Texas. The AX5 is set up...