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I sure don't know for sure, but if it is leaking through one of the oiling passages (that oil the crank, cam and lifters) it is under pressure, likely higher than the 16 PSI the cooling system normally holds. If the coolant is leaking into an oil return passage (no pressure) is usually when you...

My 88 was pretty ratty when I got it, now it runs and idles good, like new. Took awhile and was a project I actually enjoyed. Now I get to start on the exterior and see if if I can't make it look as good as it runs. Clean out the IAC and see if that doesn't help your stalling problem. A few...

In my experience the grommet gets pretty crusty, fairly quickly and looses it's flexibility. Good luck getting one out in one piece. Somebody had a kit with most all of the vacume lines, but I sure can't remember who it was.

I had a pretty good rod knock in my motor (89), replaced the connecting rod bearings and the oil pump. That was about a hundred thousand miles ago. A actually had/have an extra motor in the garage and thought, what the heck, fix what I got first and see what happens. The extra motor is still...

When I first got my 89, it needed a CPS, a fuel pump ballast resistor (fuel volume was low), an O2 sensor, the connector for the transmission half of the TPS was full of oil and the ECU half of the TPS had a flaky ground. And the fuel was way old, the spark plug cables were mostly shot, the...

It's just a rubber elbow and a grommet, no valve in there I know about. The picture (in the parts catalog) is a little ambiguous. My guess is it is number 1. I guess anything is possible but I haven't heard of any Renix power chips. My Renix will hang right with my 96 HO, they just...

I'd check the front axle U joints before anything else, most of what you describe sounds like U-joints. Except maybe the braking and spinning in the transfer. Both of my XJ's make odd (but different) sounds and have been for the last 100,000 miles or so. LOL When was the last time you looked at...

Do you have the heat wrap on your center injectors? I'd hate to steer you down the wrong path.

I have no need so I haven't mixed in the discussion. Any timer would likely work, the discussion seems to be the best way to wire it. Which in my opinion is kind of overkill, it isn't that complicated. I'd likely mount a Kixon (primitive thermostat) onto the fuel rail and have the aux fan come...

Never had 2000 myself, but have read about heat problems on the fuel rail. Not sure if it was the 2000 model or not but Jeep came up with a heat wrap kit for this problem, that from most accounts didn't help much. Seems to be a bunch of guys trying to figure out a way to wire a timer, so the...

The trigger for the ignition isn't in the distributor. The trigger pulse comes from the ECU and is triggered mostly by the CPS, with inputs from other sensors. The Renix trigger signal is kind of a one off deal, as far as I've been able to tell. Unless your module is specifically designed to...

If the cap is loosing pressure it can cause your coolant to boil at a lower temperature.

My dyslexia strikes again, looked at you model year 86 and saw 89 the first time. LOL What engine do you have? Overheating in traffic (especially with a new radiator) is often a bad mechanical fan clutch. And/or your auxiliary fan isn't coming on, it should kick in when the temperature gets...

I'd check my CPS and the vacuum line for the MAP sensor. Though I've not noticed the MAP causing backfire through the TB. A disconnected or leaking MAP vacuum line will cause it to idle really bad and stall and barely accelerate. First thing to check with the CPS is that the wires aren't...

Think they call those things the pad rails. I cleaned up the notch on mine with a wire wheel and MIG'd it. Just a couple of spot welds and a touch up with a file was all it took. Some pads come with a rounded (push on) tab that goes on the part of the pad that rests on the rails, it is rounded...

Good stuff, hopefully they keep the talent going, without the typical pitfalls of ego and drugs. I don't think that the "he takes after you" stuff stands up to much scrutiny. The only thing my herd got from me is a basically low tolerance for bullcrap. Most of the trouble comes from too much...

You can usually release it by opening the bleeder c_ck (valve), and gently prying (I use a big screwdriver) the pad away from the disc. Or use a C-clamp or sometimes (like I do) a really big pair of pliers. It will spew a little brake fluid. Brake fluid is some nasty stuff and can take paint...

Never done it myself, but from what I've read, anything over about 3 1/2" of lift *can* cause grief. Works with 31" tires and maybe 32's, if you start trimming the sheet metal in your fender wells. Having to deal with the aftermath of anything over 4" of lift and more then 32" tires, has never...

Went to visit a buddy near Jacksonville, we are sitting around bored and he suggests we go hunting, it's like 2 AM. Take off in my jeep to a place we know, borderline swamp with lots of high foliage and criss crossing roads. Really bad storm moves in, thunder, lightning, raining so hard you can...

The stops in the steering knuckle that actually stop the steering left and right are a bolt with a nut welded to it. The nut welded to the bolt, makes them non adjustable, but the washer spacer behind the nut usually works out for 235's. I actually only needed a washer spacer on the right...