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You have to be careful if you rewire the coil. You don't want to put more power to the coil or you will start frying ignition modules and coils. It runs great with 12 volts on the coil but sooner or later one of them is going to go. I fried two ingition modules in one week with 12 volts on...

In need of a little help please !!!!!! It sounds to me like you got a bad speedo. If it has a warranty I would try to return it for a new one. The cable shouldn't have had anything to do with it.

Its not just yours most newer cars do it becuase of all the things the computer is monitoring. It could be as simple as your gas cap being loose. You also can't put gas in it with the engine running or it will do that too for the same reason. You need to find out what it is. You can go to...

That might be your problem right there. Don't get the $7 one. Spend alteast 10-12. I went though three $5 ones with it never going above 165 degrees. It would hit 195 like it supposed for a about a week. After I got a failsafe it was $11 i think I haven't had a problem since. It goes...

Yes that should be the case. For oil to be comming out though it the diaphram must be leaking and that would make it read low or not at all.

Well I hate to burst your bubble but the 4.0 is fuel injected and doesn't have a choke. Without more information I really can't help to much. I can give you a guess to have check the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) It controls the idle speed on the engine I believe.

You do need some restiction to allow the collant to transport the heat. With the lower temp you will notice less preformance and lower gas mileage. When its cold I can't have the choke on my jeep open completely until it almost hits 170 or else it will stall at all stopd signs. I could tune...

You could also get some battery terminal grease. They sell it most places and it helps to make better contact and to stop the oxidation from forming which is why yours stops working.

To fix that I took a piece ot 1/16 inch aluminum and cut it out to match the bottom of the carb. With another gasket and some very careful silicon its solid and leak free. Just cut it to the shape of the base of the carb and cut out the bolt holes and the venturi holes and that's all you need...

Try this it might help....Follow it exactly since Webber carbs are very touchy http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

What both of you described is a very common thing with Webber carbs. The work great if they are adjusted perfect. If you are just slightly off it won't idle. The first thing I wouls check would be to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak anywhere. You can spray starting fluid around the base...

it can only go in two ways. Right or 180 degrees off. Put the rotor just before the number one point like Od said and drop it in. Move it alittle if need be to get the slot on the bottom to catch. Then you just need to adjust the timing after you get it started.

Graewulf, I am sorry but you repsonse was just not relalistic. Where I live there are not buses. If I want to walk about 20 miles I could get one. As for maintaining you completely missed my point. I work at autozone and I see people all the time come in that serously can't afford it but...

JEEP Soft Top The best thing to do it look in a Chilton or Haynes replair manual. they both have pitctures with decriptions of all the stock transmission's. It would be the easier way that I can think of. Unless don't already have one of those.

The one problem I have with the current enviromental laws is they stick it to the people that can't afford a newer car. With the current Emmision Laws in PA any car over 75 must have emmisions(that is in the certian counties right now) However my point is for the most part the people that...

The Webber is considered a performance Carb. and that is not allowed for emmisions. The motorcraft is just a stock carb. They used it on the amc 304's and 360's in jeeps and wagoneers. I live in PA and where I got mine inspected he didn't even give it a second look. It depends on where you...

I believe there should be sleeves where the spring bolts to the frame but not at the shackles. I just replaced mine and the bushing kit only came with 4 sleeves.

For the Header gaskets I would look into metal ones. We just got them in at autozone. They are supposedly soft metal and can be reused over and over again. It might be worth a shot. They are not behind the counter then are in Isle 6 with the chrome perforance stuff.

Few random YJ things I would say buy a manual gauge. They cost about $15 and that will tell you for sure. When I swapped engines in my CJ the guage didn't work afterwards. It would come up to about 1 psi after starting the engine. I changed the sending unit and the wiring and still nothing...

I Looked at the mean greens but I didn't find one for a 76 engine. Besides that is allittle bit more expensive than I would like. I would rather put two altenators on it first. Which I am thinking about. I don't have power steering so I might be able to modify the bracket to hold an...