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Ok so I couldn’t get them all bled, the front driver side bleeder valve is garbage and would not crack loose, the front passenger side bled just fine with zero air, all fluid. The passenger side rear bleeder was also crap, but the driver side rear bled normal with zero air…but not as much...

Ok, so I had some free time after work today, I went and traced all the brake lines, none went across behind the engine, but the front passenger side goes across the front bottom rad support, and could easily be crushed during the engine swap…fortunately (unfortunately for my diagnostics) none...

Oh man, the lines that go behind the engine and/or over the trans have me concerned. Those are metal lines, correct? The mechanic that replaced the engine said he checked the vacuum from the engine with a gauge and he said it was good. When I pulled the check valve off the booster it was...

Pads have normals wear, but the rotors have sitting for two years, levels of surface rust on them. When you say “rubber lines” you mean the brake lines at the wheel where they go into the calipers? Or did you mean vacuum lines from the booster? The booster lines look good. I’ll be getting...

So my 07 JK X, blew an engine. It sat for 2 years until I could get enough $ to get a remanufactured engine put in. I got it back Friday, with a note saying the brake vacuum booster is bad. So while driving it, the first push of the brake pedal is normal and feels fine, but any subsequent...

The re manufactured engine place said they would void the warranty if I re use my old one, since there was metal bits all in there. My mechanic and I are both calling around salvage yards locally to see what we can find. He also said he may have found a place that remanufactures those timing...

Yeah it sucks. It’s very pricy I assume, because the oil pump is built in. But I’m already stretching myself on the replacement engine. And I know that there are kits for pulling the pump out of that cover and replacing that, and that seems like you could get in there and get it pretty well...

So my 07 is finally in the shop getting a remanufactured engine put in. Engine failure due to pushrod bearing going bad. In the oil pan there was a lot of metal bits. The re-manufactured engine doesn’t come with the timing cover/oil pump assembly. The mechanic is telling me we shouldn’t re-use...

Hmm that drag link bed or lack there of is curious…it could be something that was “fixed” as they were trying to get it on the road after it got totaled. Previous owner said it got hit on that side. I ordered a new adjustment sleeve for the drag link to get my steering wheel centered but maybe...

I tried getting pictures of the under side but I wasn’t able to get it up in the air and get the tires off yet…too busy flushing my rad and heater core…previous owner decided to make mud in the rad by mixing coolants. he told me there was a thermostat issue, so he swapped it with a lower temp...

The forums will not let me upload any photos for some reason

I’ll post some pics when I get out of work today. see I measured the front springs according to something I read on these forums and that’s how I came up with the 6 inch lift. But since I have read like 3-4 different ways you can measure to tell what lift you have and all of them disagree, I...

The control arms were on my list of parts to chase around until I solve this. can anyone tell me how to measure or where it’s supposed to be set? when I get adjustables, how do I know where to adjust them too? I can’t go with the same length as the stock ones obviously