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Thanx, Sully. Also, while surfing today, I found this: http://www.ok4wd.com/product.asp?id=547 If my D35 ever explodes, that's what I'm getting. For $800 I can have a Ford 8.8 with perches, shock mounts, disc brakes and all, ready to go. Only other mods would be a different length driveshaft...

You ain't gonna see much difference from 4.11 to 4.56. Also, I wouldn't regear unless you plan on upgrading to 33" or larger tires. But if you do, go to 4.88 and be done with it, that way, when/if you go to 33's (or 35's) you'll already be set. Corey

Spacers are $125/pair. So $250 out the door. And I've found them with free shipping. I'm primarily a mudder (southeast). Not too many rocks to eat up the aluminums. Plus I need all the weight reduction I can get for my 2.5L. I suppose I could solve all my problems and buy a Rubicon like...

Nooch, If you're gonna do it, do it right. I would ditch the spacers (sell 'em on ebay) and get the 4" suspension kit. You will clear 33's and it is not REQUIRED to get the SYE and it is not REQUIRED to regear. However, understand that you will loose power as a result of not regearing. I...

TwistedCopper knows exactly what I'm talking about. 33's, 4.10 gears, and a 2.5L are not the same recipe for disaster that a 4.0L, 33's, and 4.10s. Thank you, TC, for re-iterating my thoughts. Also, the only reason I drive 80/20 is because I just got lifted 6 months ago. I'm getting my front...

Curt, Yeah, I know the steelies are cheaper than spacers, but I like my light weight alloys and I like their look. Don't want new rims. If I do get new rims, they will be some aluminum Eagle 589 or MickeyThompson classic style rims. But that's $500 for a set of 5 all around. corey

Did I not make myself perfectly clear? I did call Superior, though, and they said "No" they won't do the Super 35 kit with any other type of locker than the Detroit or the ARB. So can I hear from somebody with an opinion on the EZ-locker vs. the Lock-Right? If you're not going to comment on...

I'm getting a locker next month. I want the lunchbox style as I'm putting it in my D35 (non c-clip) and don't want to put too much $ in that thing. So I don't want answers to the other question (should I lock my D35). I already know the D35 is weak. What I want to know is which is better...

with computer? alternator? wiring? etc?

I understand your anger, but might want to tone down the expletives. Yes, even though you masked them, we know what you're saying. I woke one morning to find a hole melted in my driver's side plastic window just big enough so the thief could fit his arm in and open my door. If the genius...

Well, I finally got around to swapping out my speedometer gear in the tail housing of my t-case. It was much easier than I thought. I should've done it eons ago. I bought the 35 tooth gear from a guy in my Jeepclub for $5 about 3 months ago. My original gear was a 41 tooth (for 4.10s with...

I did the Herculiner in October of 2002. It's still sticking and it's the original coat. Go to my website (watch out for pop-ups... it's a free site) and I did an entire write-up on the process. The key is preparation. http://coreyandhis.jeepz.com/photo2.html It was only $110 with the extras...

Twisted, You know I wouldn't lie to you... go with the rattle can OD. Rattle can is in surplus and it's easy to use. If you are in another state and need to paint, you can go to any hardware or Lowe's and get a can of it. Plus, it'll look sweet with that spice softtop. Definitely leave the...

what is wrong with the youth of America? Just do the replacement in the parking lot of the hardware store... 1) remove all the bolts 2) don't touch the jeep 3) go into store and buy replacements (buy grade 8 bolts) 4) grab your wrench and put each bolt back in in the parking lot. (provided...

A double stabilizer is best suited for really large tires. If you have 33s or smaller, I'd stick with the single stabilizer. 35s are on the cusp. I'd probably go double with 35s. There are some setups that allow you to use 2 stabilizers with all the factory steering equipment. I think...

Laneiac, What motor do you have? I only have the 2.5L and plan on locking my D35. I have 33's also. I think that having a rear locker will decrease my chance of breakage because I won't have to "run and bump" over obstacles. Of course, my tubes will still be weak, but hopefully I won't use...

Remove the shifter boot and trim away the sheet metal where the shifter hits when in 2nd & 4th (and probably reverse too). Corey

Redrooster, I have extended bumpstops AND those 1" longer than stock replacement Daystar bumpstops. Sure I hit the springs when I turn the wheel up front, but that's not that much of an issue. Adjust the steering stops and problem solved. The front wheels tuck nicely. But due to the length...

6061 aluminum is what Spidertrax advertises. I think I can solve my issues cheaper by getting rid of my 1.25" lift shackles. Then my bumpstops would stop the tire from going into the frame. I have some 1/2" lift shackles in my garage that I made... already drilled, painted and ready to go...

attn: Boston Jeep/Dave C That's good... but did it say anything about "on-road/highway" use? That's the heart of my question.