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Duh. Sorry, didn't think about the diff being on the driver's side. Ignore me "pre-coffee" post. C

When you say "front driveline", I suupose you mean the front axle? If you mean the axle, I'd say replace it with a 1995 dana 30 from a YJ. Why? The 1995 D30 is high-pinion, reverse-cut, and has the larger u-joints than the earlier YJs. Plus, the spring perches should not have to be moved...

Yes. For $2,000, you need to jump on that. You should've stated that in the first post, then we wouldn't have had all this discussion. C

Careful! Don't assume that because we have similar symptoms in our 2.5L, that that motor will be "okay". If that guy ragged his gas-pedal... then he might have real problems which he's passing on to you. Mileage means crap when your talking 95,000 or 195,000 on an original motor. I'd be...

Yep. HellCreek YJ suspension here. Rough Country parts and shocks, HellCreek springs warranted for life. Also, the HellCreek springs are 4" where the RC are 3". Flexs well; not stiff at all. Very pleased. C send me a pm if you want to know more.

Sounds like you should just take the body off the jeep and put it on the Ford. :shock: C

I think you're confusing the word "normal" with "common". I too have a YJ with 2.5 and it gets the typical smoke out of the oil cap. I can tell you this... I put Castrol High-Mileage motor oil in with my last oil change, and I feel like it really helped. I got a little pep back. See, I had...

I got the same issue... I just ignore it. C

Nope should be good. To check your alignment: when coming to a stop light take foot off the gas and hand off the steering wheel, brake gradually and see if the jeep wanders while braking. If so, you need to get it aligned. Obviously, keep your hand near steering wheel if you need to catch it...

http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm Same thing as Q-tec... 90% off. C

Just to play devil's advocate, there are several jeepers in my club that run their YJs with no front or rear track bar nor sway bars. I only have a front track bar. I drive mine 70% on road. If I drove it more than 50% offroad, I would remove the front track bar. C

Yeah... you need to replace that whole axle. Also make sure your frame didn't get bent in the process. And if it was gov't fault... they need to pay. Hope you reported it. C

Just goes to show... "You get what you pay for" C

First of all, I'd get 4.10's if switching out R&P. You wont notice much going to 3.54 and if you go to 3.73, you might as well go to 4.10 and be done with it. It would be cheaper (probably) to just get a set of axles from the 'yard that already have 4.10's in em and then sell the 'yard back...

Bounty's right, 4" between holes, 5" total length. C

That's right, beachjeep. Hell Creek springs with the RC hardware kit. Also $425 shipped to my door. Also, the Hell Creek springs are guaranteed for the life of the vehicle (same owner only). And I asked specifically before buying if he'd replace sagging springs and he said "Yes". That and...

I'll vouch for Hell Creek springs. www.hellcreeksuspsensions.com C

Not getting snappy, but he said "85mph in a 4banger with 33" tires and 4.10 gearing." That only happens in my Jeep if I'm going downhill and following a semi at a range of 10 feet. But I've never found the need to do more than 70 in my Jeep. Any faster and I start to shake bolts loose...

Yehaaa for fuel injection! (and the lighter block) C

I'm not sure what you mean by "fit"? It won't rub anything at compression or on turns... either rim will work. One will be .5" closer to the frame rail than the other. Not sure what the problem is here. Sounds like you just need to let the guy at the Pepboys parts counter pick em out. C