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Found a good write-up on someone having the same issues as mine. After replacing everything I did (and then some) he determined the issue was the Distributor Switch Plate (or Distributor Pickup Coil). He had a misfire on his jeep for #2 but it didn't light the CEL

Greg, Could a bad CPS be the culprit? That’s about the only sensor I haven’t changed yet JPN, I figured the same, but figured it was worth a shot for someone else to confirm

Found the below post on another forum because of someone having the same issues..... how plausible is this???? "Maybe you have a stuck thermostat?? If thats the case it may cause your fuel mixture to be to rich for a bit while the engine is still cold."

So.... fired the jeep up this morning and it did the same spit and sputter from take off. Cleared right up after I got 2 blocks from home and everything got warmed up. About at a loss at this point. Just seems like I'm chasing the rabbit down the hole JPN: I'll pull the positive side tonight...

Update: Changed out the exhaust manifold gasket. Actually there wasn't a gasket there at all. Just a gasket on the intake manifold. Pulled the old gasket off and put the 1 piece gasket I got from Autozone. Bolted everything up tight and also changed out the O2 sensor since I already had it...

We are changing the manifold gasket and checking for vacuum leaks this Sunday. When I was data logging and saw the negative number, I was thinking I might have something else going bad in addition to the current issue (wouldn't even surprise me)

UPDATE: I decided to data log again this morning on my way to work. One piece of info I noticed was the ST FTRM11 reading from the scanner. Most of the time it would fluctuate around 0 with a +/- 3. On the interstate I noticed the value dropped to -35.3. Is this something to be concerned about?

The bad COP was on my truck, not the Jeep

LOL. doubt it

Hey, now that is something to save for. Since I only have a 4 banger, I wasn't planning on towing anything

The one thing echoed across all forums was to make sure the product used did not state it was GL-5 (whatever that means)

Should I use regular antisease on the threads of the plugs or something else?

Woohoo... (Cartwheels and backflips)...... lol

Greg, I'll post back once the gasket is done. The plan for next weekend is the exhaust manifold gasket and running seafoam through the vacuum system to get some of the crap cleaned out. After seeing what the throttle body looked like before and after cleaning, I can imagine what the rest looks like

Dont know anyone with a welder:( I looked at it tonight a little better. I can get some rigid kindorf that I can bolt together and to the frame and bumper together

I really should get one instead of borrowing it (damn truck went down tonight, #8 COP took a dump. Irony i still had the scanner....). As for the EVAP, still holding and no pending code. This again leads me to believe it was stored in there before I changed the solenoid out. The #3 misfire...

Ok, so I was able to do a little data logging on the ride home tonight. It appears both O2 sensors are working properly. While at idle and on the interstate, both sensors were fluxuating between 0.100 - 0.900. From what I could find on a post for O2 testing, these are standard to show the O2...

The local dealership checked the part number for the fluid needed. The guy said it was Synthetic 10w30

yeah, I see see alot of debates about the brass syncros being "attacked" by wrong fluids being put in. I was searching for Redline, but no one near me sells it. I have seen Lucas products has a transmission fluid and their stuff I've been happy with when running in an engine.... thoughts?

found the post. I pasted just the info, not the source AX-5 5 speed manual - 3.3 quarts 75W-90 GL3, 75W-90 GL4, or 10W30 (NOT GL5 or GL5 compatible as incorrectly stated in some of the manuals)