Search results

The electrical system uses the "ground" to complete the circuit. Think of the electrical system on a Jeep (well, everywhere else too) as big circle: the voltage leaves the "+" post of the battery and must return to the "-" post to complete the circuit or flow of energy. In this case, the metal...

I like Greg's input, great problem skills Sir! The puller I have is more or less just a threaded shaft (more like a sholder bolt) that fits this particular pump style. It has other arbors for different pumps. I believe I go it at Advance Auto? I also found that I had to use an impact gun and...

Just an FYI. I contacted Tison78_CJ5 for some help with my electricial problems, he is really knowledgable!

I think your getting feedback from your ground........ I had smilliar problems when I re-wiried my CJ with a new harness and added various relays for electric fuel pump, aux heater etc... I had the same issuse as you with the starter due to the electric fuel pump relay back feeding.

I think your first obsticule will be which belt setup you have. V-belt or serpintine? I'm guessing v-belt and the later pumps as you're refferring to are serpintine. It can be made to work without a doubt, its just a matter of finding a compatable v-belt pulley or converting to a serpintine...

That is dependent on which type of RTV is used. Aerobic needs to dry. Anaerobic is good to go right out of the tube.

Ok.... Now I'll just join Bounty_Hunter as not "qualified". Best of luck Sir.

Hey Man..... Don't be difficult, they are new the Jeep world......... Just saying. Maybe they are form a different part of the world.

Is it maybe the cruise control module plug? Or intermiten wipers?

Is it flaking down to the base (color) coat? Or is the base coming off as well (primer exposed)? Can you post a good photo or two?

Oh, it can be done..... I believe ProCharger has a compact centrifugal unit that would work real well, but it's not going to do what you think for a Jeep. With the right components (go big money!) and inner cooler (it’s going to really hot in there) the 2.5L would out perform a stock 4.0L but...

Hey Tyson, Not sure how much of a high rise your going with, but keep in mind that the longer intake runners you have, the less off idle drivability you will have. As a general rule tunnel ramming is a trade off of low end for mid- high end torque and RPM's. your fuel charge signal will...

Hey Jeepn4Fun, I wrote that tech blog your referring too. We are talking about the white plastic bearing fitting into the black metal race correct? As the other guys pointed out, it is a tight fit and they will only fit in one way. They should snap together. I like Flatie's idea as it is a...

Hey Tison, If you look closely at the side of your 2100, it will have a small circle with a number engraved in the center. This is the venturi size, using the list below you can estimate the CFM it is currently set up for. I'm not an expert with Holley, but I believe you can jet them down a...

Hey Al, Typically, you'd re-use the 258 push rods and rockers. But I've heard of guys using the 4.0 rods and arms as well. Have you tried to start it? Did it run at all? You can check the length of the rods you have and do some troubleshooting but it will make a difference if the new lifters...

It does not have to an older "non-emissions" era harness. The ECM part of the front (engine) harness is separate from the engine harness. Any engine ( and if you have nothing other than the dash, you need the front and rear light harness sections as well) harness from 76-86 for a CJ7 258 will...

Tony, If I understand what you're after, then you won't need the ECM harness portion of the engine harness. They are seperate, so if you had all the OEM stuff from the get go and wanted to do the upgrades you mentioned, you would just remove the ECM, it's harness, solinoids, etc. If your...

Hey Bob, You probebly have a nipple at the base of the carb (not sure which carb you have?). Regardless, you can tap into a ported source meaning its the vaccum regulated by the throttle plates (this would be a port right at the base of the carb. If you have a pre-emissions set-up (which I...

This is what you'll need: Front Inner Side Axle Oil Seal - 8121781

I believe the second seal (2") is for the inner side (backside) of the rotor/hub assem.? The first one you have listed is for the axle tube and seals the oil in and other stuff out of the diff.