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Your oil pressure readings are within limits. The 4.2L (258) and 4.0L (242) where both infamous for noisey valve trains. Are sure you have the 4.0L or maybe a 4.2L with a 4.0 head swap? The head swap can leave you with a noisey valve train because most guys dont measure the push rod clearance...

So, it's been a while since I've updated this post. The frame-off resto of the CJ7 Laredo is complete for the most part, there are some upgrades that are "above and beyond" coming in the months ahead. It's completely drivable and safe at this point. The break-in of the rebuilt motor went well...

I may have one, should be able to look around tomorrow afternoon

I would remove the pump and make certain that the lever is under the cam lobe and not sitting on the top. It would be tuff in install it incorrectly, but it's possible. Do you have the old pump (you mentioned you replaced the pump)? You could try re-installing the old one just to see if your...

It's likely your fuel pump. Are you certain there is fuel in the tank?

Yes,Ok...... Now that I think about it, that maybe the oil low psi cut-out. Does your exisiting distrubutor still have a harness plug connected to it?

Sorry, was asking is the one you have a single or double pin electrical connection?

The first photo is the OEM harness connector for the DuraSpark distributor setup. The second is difficult to tell by photo. The third looks a lot like a crude/early attempt at a O2 sensor (but not certain, I'm not really into the Chrysler Jeep era) and the fourth, your guess is right, it's the...

Is the you have a single or double pin electrical connection?

It's a pulse air solenoid assembly. It was/is part of the emission set. They are usually disconnected or bypassed.

Ok.... My bad. For some reason I thought the pedal groups were the same up until 95.

Hi Dennis, I'm tring to picture what your referring too. Are talking about connecting the round "eyelet" of the brake booster to the brake pedal itself? If so, the haynes manual would be correct if you have an OEM pedal group assm. I have both auto and manual trans setups in my shop and they...

Hi Jeff, The regulator is recommended by Weber and ideally would be regulating down to 2.5 psi, but no more than 4 psi. I don't see a pressure gauge which you should have as it is a neccessary to perodically adjust your fuel pressure during maintenance etc. You could certainly re-run those...

You may want to share some more details like what type or year of Jeep your reffering too, OEM (stock) or aftermarket top. A photo may be good to as some of the aftermarket tops have different fasteners than OEM tops.

I threaded the holes and used socket cap stainless screws/bolts. I added purple loctite for safety. I think you can see some of these in my build thread. 86 Laredo Resto/Mod

I wasn't worried about the brake lines since mine had a coiled wire jacket. I cut small pieces of 3/8 hose to put around the fuel lines, so the clamp is appling pressure to the rubber hose....If that makes sense?

I used ones similiar to want you posted for my heavy gauge battery cables. Try "Welder Joes" in Washington State (I think?), they also have an Ebay store. I got single and double stainless steel clamps for my brake and fuel lines from them...........

Sorry for the over explanation......... I was reading over all the postings for this thread and got confused. Someone else asked "what is meant by check the grounds?".

That was awesome! MythBusters watchout......

Now you got me wondering? I'll take a look at mine later today, I think I have the Power Built set you have pictured. I've used it twice without problem like your describing. Are you turn it by hand or impact wrench?