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Star, While everyone has given you great insight to the potiential problem (as everyone here is famous for), do yourself the first favor as Greg mentioned and tear-down/inspect your front axle (minus pulling the carrier,ring and pinion unless it is truely a mess during the inspection). The...

Whoever told you to try a new pivot bearing and/or clutch fork is going under the assumption that your clutch travel is binding and will not travel the full lenght of the stroke. If you competely remove the linkage from the fork, do you gain any travel (moves towards the rear or front of the...

Here, try this. It is what I used my last build and was very happy with it and its only $99. http://jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/products/jeep-d-300-stainless-steel-twin-stick-shifter

Unless you have a really custom Jeep, you don't need the cable-shifter model. There should be a standard twin stick direct connection one specific to CJ on his site. They are about $140 if I remember and it comes with everything you'll need and good instructions.

They won't mate up and even if they would somehow, you'd have issues with the intake/exhaust ports that would not seal or match up, the guides for the push rods would be all catty-wonkgus and coolant passages that go no where. Also the top of the compression chamber would be at an angle. ...

If you buy the kit from JB Customs, nothing. It comes with everything and is a custom fit (unlike some of the universal ones).

It could be something intermittely holding a valve open. If you're above idle, throttle plates open, something is reverbarating backup the air/fuel column within a runner. And it's hot enongh to iginite the runner and plenium. Since your exhaust note/tone has changed, problebly exhaust valve...

My guess is you have a valve problem. Possibly as minor as carbon build up around an exhaust valve? But could be more involved.

It is really API GL-5 that the other forums are referring too. Whether we are referring to GL-1,-2,-3,-4,-5 etc. these are ratings or really nomenclatures of gear oil in a standardized format. The remember the mentioning of chlorine and sulfur are things you don't what in a gearbox with yellow...

So, I'm not an expert with the AX15 (or 5) but I believe they fall into the "non-World Class" category of gearbox's or simply put, they have brass, bronze and other yellow parts (mainly synchronizer rings). If yours has brass/bronze parts, you'll need to be careful selecting gear oil. You'll...

Sorry, didn't notice this posting........ Was not ignoringyou. I have run manifold vac on other cars and I did a lot of trial and errorwith the Jeep. I had several calls with Comp Cams and DUI with regards to thisproject and the best vac set up, but I'm getting better throttle response, smoother...

The tee goes before the fuel filter. The question I have is does your sending unit/pickup have a single hose barb or a double barb? If it has two barbs in the center, one is a supply(connected to the foot valve/strainer) and the other is the return. If installed properly, a CJ tank is vented at...

I have used a air hammer with a blunt tip to drive the shaft from the bearing in the past. You need either the gearbox casing to support the gear from the input/output shaft or use the hammer along with a bearing separator. Just a little trick I learned from Moses Ludel.

I have that set from HF. It's not a bad tool, but not great either. Do you have a floor press or compressor that can run a air hammer?

During the AMC era 258 /4.2L engine, that was the CTS for the electric manifold heater that sat below the carb on 82' and up years. Don't know if Chrysler changed things after the take over in 86/87? You would have a water/coolant jacketed manifold on your 88' to assist in fuel economy...

They are just standard NPT fittings (they are actually the inlet and outlet of your manifold heater). You could go to pretty much any hardware store and find compatable NPT X hose barb fittings that will work. You even go to McMaster Carr and order Stainless versions of them.

If youre down to a bear frame to replace the cross member and each frame rail is still parallel / square with each other, then I would weld in the brace as described. If your frame is out of true, then it really is a waste of time because your going to need to straight / parallel out the rails...

So, what year is the YJ doner? I'm guessing it's a 87-90 model that had the Sport Style Rollbar that included spreaders (bars) to the windshield frame (so it basicly looks just like the CJ7 Sport Rollbar but with the spreaders). Or do you have the later YJ rollbar (reffered to as a Family...

Thanks Greg! :-)

Thanks Terry :rolleyes: