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Go with the Weber 38...although Weber does not list CFM it is typically referred to as being rated at 390CFM. Just be sure that you shop a vendor which sells the REDLINE Weber.

Could be a symptom of a bad motor/transmission mount.

Typically speaking Redline doesn't sell any products to the public. They import and distribute carbs, parts and kits to the vendors who retail them. Now if you are in need of help solving a technical issue and then it is found that a part is necessary to remedy the issue they may opt to...

Gaskets Weber by Number | Carbs Unlimited Noticing you had mentioned using RTV as a sealer, it is suggested that you don't. I use motor oil...simply toss them into a pan of oil and allow them to absorb all they can while you are preparing for the install. Here is an reinstall guide that...

Then I have misunderstood. A point to make about omitting those "lines under and around the air filter housing". If you omit the TAC system hoses then you will no longer have the warm air feed to the carb during the cold run and you will be forced to by some means jamb the cold air door...

That diagram shown on top is in error and should not be used or provided to anyone on a technical forum. Notice how it is indicating that the "S" ported vacuum tube being shared with the distributer vacuum advance and then supplying both sides of the CTO. While one side is feeding the...

Hey folks, I have not been able to locate the metering rods with the 2143 ID. Nearest I have is 2170. I've contacted all that I thought could locate a source, several have looked but none have turned up. If you happen to have a BBD thats just taking up space I would hope that you are willing...

That would be the Jeep/Motorcraft S.S.I. If your engine is still under computer control shop for the '83 CJ through the '90 Wrangler If you have nuttered the ignition you would be miles ahead if you shopped for the pre computer version of the same which you would find in the '79-'81...

It is not a pain, I and this fine forum are here to help folks as well as sharing our common interest(sickness). I was unaware of the restriction. A security thing I suppose. You have mail.

Engine?

I'll send you one. If you will shoot me a pm with address. It will be placed in the mail tomorrow.

It's all good with the kit, both the DGS and the DGV kit parts are the same. The concern may be that you used the float setting guide illustrated on the DGV detail sheet. Did you and are the floats brass or plastic? With your mention of running rich,..please describe the symptoms, black...

and another thing,..Lol

Based on the appearance you have the gem of the Redline Weber jeep conversion carbs, a 38DGES Thanks for the pictures. If you will look closely the ID stampings will appear where I mentioned, considering that the two sides are longer than the two ends of the body and the base is that area...

Have you positively identified the carb as being a Weber? Reading of clearing the idle tubes leads me to think you maybe running with the Carter/Weber BBD. It will have the electric stepper motor at the rear of the body, adjusting air mix. If it is a Weber it will appear near to the diagram...

Realizing this is an old thread still I wanted to confirm it's ID. It is as you suspected a 38DGES. All genuine Webers have the Series and size stamped into the base flange, this one can be found on the end opposite of that with the choke assembly.

If it is an aluminum case then I suspect you have a T-150, Original installs from as late as '79 May have been a drop-in swap in place of a T-176 4sp. While many of them were installed the T-4 and T-5 were the most common trans used in that build year. They would require driveshaft mods being...

A word of caution with using "a fairlly heavy return spring" when it is in excess of what is required is one of the two major causes of worn throttle rod bushings. The other being that anchoring the spring so that it is not in-line with the accelerator cable's draw of the rod or in other words...

Look into the possibility of the float level being set too high or debris has cause the needle to remain open. After your next engine shut down open the bowl level viewing plugs, if fuel runs out there either of those will be the issue. It should be set so that the fuel just reaches the...

Here are three that should help. First lets positively identify your carb. If it is a genuine Italian designed Weber it will have the series and size stamped into the base flange of the body on the end opposite the choke. Of these three if you will study the tune guide,... consider each...